NutmegNutmeg

The restaurant

Nutmeg opened on The Mall in Clifton Village with a single argument to make: that Indian food in Britain had been flattened into a handful of dishes, and that the truth was far larger and far more interesting.

The menu travels — Himalayan heartlands, Bengali rivers, the spice-soaked coasts of the south — and it changes as the kitchen finds things worth cooking. What does not change is the care. Spices ground in house, sauces built slowly, and a dining room that treats an ordinary Tuesday like an occasion.

It is the restaurant that started everything, and still the one the others are measured against.

Indian food in Britain had been flattened into a handful of dishes. The truth is far larger.

★★★★★

Could not fault this restaurant in the heart of Clifton village.