Kal DosaKal Dosa

The restaurant

Anyone who has taken a long train south in India knows the food: handed through windows, eaten off banana leaf, better than it has any right to be.

Kal Dosa is built on that memory. Dosas off the griddle, thalis that arrive as a whole landscape at once, biryanis with the lid still on, and a vegetarian menu that is not an afterthought but most of the point.

On Gloucester Road, among the independents, which is exactly where it belongs.

Handed through train windows, eaten off banana leaf, better than it has any right to be.

The food at Kal Dosa is exquisite. It's full of flavour and the dishes are interesting and varied – this isn't your standard curry house.